Nick and Beth came up from Kitti pwong en Nialim (Friday night). Although we had planned on going out to the Karaoke bar, we ended up only going to the movies. They saw The Dark Knight … I thought about watching it again, but I made the mistake of seeing Wanted, whose only redeeming quality was some rather risqué shots of Angelina Jolie. Afterwards, we were too tired to do anything else.
The next morning, Tanja made us all raspberry pancakes … from scratch. After a couple meals of simple spaghetti, I was beginning to doubt her claims of culinary prowess, but this little feat definitely proved it. It was a good way to wake up, and considering that it would be the last meal I would have until five o’clock, I was quite glad for the treat.
Afterwards, I set out for my trip to Madolenihmw – which was easier said than done. The drive is at least an hour, and every cab company I called wanted at least $20 to take me there alone. So, I decided to try hitchhiking – I made a sign that read “Keh pahn kohla PATS men Madolenihmw?” (Are you going to PATS in Madolenihmw?) and started walking down the road waving it. Eventually, I was picked up by a taxi that was already headed out that direction, so I knew the fare would be less - he ended up charging me only $8.
The ride was pretty interesting – I was the only menwai in the car, so I knew they were talking to me whenever they used English. There were two other passengers – we dropped one off about halfway there, and for the other we had to take a half-hour diversion up and down a badly beaten-up dirt road. When I was alone with the cab driver, we started talking about where I was from and why I was here in Pohnpei. At one point, he suggested I find a Pohnpeian wife and stick around… I told him I’d think about it. :)
Eventually, we arrived at Lucas and Matt’s place – they live in a tiny house with a single bedroom and no stove, next to Ponape Agricultural & Trade School (PATS, which my driver said used to be “the best high school in the FSM”, before it was closed down). Unfortunately, due to the unexpectedly long cab ride, the four of them (Andy and Erin had arrived the night before) had already left when I got there … so, I told the cabbie to take me to Kepirohi falls to meet them.
Although Kepirohi is the most impressive of Pohnpei’s many waterfalls, you’d be hard-pressed to tell that from the decidedly understated entrance. The land it sits on, like all land in Pohnpei, is privately owned by a local family. You pass by their house (which is the usual corrugated tin affair) on the way up there, and someone steps out to accept the $3 fee for entry and points you to the narrow but well-maintained foot path.
I walked up this path for a few minutes, and soon I could hear the roar of the falls, long before I actually saw it. The path hit the river, and turned to parallel it. Soon I was stepping through more slippery river rocks, and then there it was. I had seen pictures, but I had imagined something about half as large, and was duly quite overwhelmed.
The waterfall is some 70 feet high, and almost as wide, with the raging waters tumbling over countless basalt boulders on the way down – one the left side these boulders are dry and Matt climbed up to the top on them at one point. At the bottom is a small pool which is home to some of the freshwater eels which Pohnpeians consider sacred, one of which apparently bit Matt while he was swimming. Sitting on the rocks at the edge of this pool, you are bathed in a spray of cool water from the falls and everything is drowned out by the roar – it was extremely relaxing.
After the waterfall, we walked back to Lucas and Matt’s to gather our stuff for our next outing to Nan Madol, then we started walking to Temwen (pronounced “chemwen”) island. After passing over the causeway, we came to a fork in the road and chose the path on the right. This turned out to be a mistake, as the paved road turned to dirt road, then to dirt wheel ruts and finally to thick weeds and mud. We turned back and took the other path, which was paved for most of the way.
After taking yet another wrong turn and doubling back, we finally found the road leading down to the ruins. Just as at Kepirohi, this path is owned by a family and we were required to pay one dollar each to use it. At the end of the path, we encountered the family that owns Nan Madol itself, and they charged us three more dollars. I was struck by how simply they lived, considering that they own one of Micronesia’s most important cultural treasures – although the complex of structures were large, so was the family that occupied them, and everything was very simply built and reflected their isolation from the rest of the island.
After paying, we walked through their backyard and began down the narrow path leading back to the ruins. We stepped down a walkway paved with bits of broken, dead coral, and crossed several makeshift bridges constructed from logs and plywood. Finally, we arrived on an island from which we could see the first truly identifiable structure, which was separated from us by a shallow channel of water.
The buildings of Nan Madol are constructed from basalt rocks which are cut so as to resemble logs – these are stacked in alternating directions on artificial islets to yield stone fortresses some twenty feet high in places. Once again, the pictures I had seen before had not prepared me for the size of the place, and I was also struck by another thought – these were the oldest structures I had ever seen. The area was occupied by people in the first or second century AD, the islets were constructed in the 8th or 9th century, and the buildings themselves were begun in the 12th or early 13th century. In other words, Columbus had yet to land in the Americas when they were already in use.
The complex originally covered some 170 acres and housed about a thousand people, with more than a hundred of the artificial islets spread out over the reef on the southern side of Temwen island. Today, more than half of this original area has been overtaken with jungle. The first building we saw was actually the royal mortuary of Nan Douwas, which sits at the very edge of the complex … we had walked right over most of the site without even noticing it.
The next morning, Tanja made us all raspberry pancakes … from scratch. After a couple meals of simple spaghetti, I was beginning to doubt her claims of culinary prowess, but this little feat definitely proved it. It was a good way to wake up, and considering that it would be the last meal I would have until five o’clock, I was quite glad for the treat.
Afterwards, I set out for my trip to Madolenihmw – which was easier said than done. The drive is at least an hour, and every cab company I called wanted at least $20 to take me there alone. So, I decided to try hitchhiking – I made a sign that read “Keh pahn kohla PATS men Madolenihmw?” (Are you going to PATS in Madolenihmw?) and started walking down the road waving it. Eventually, I was picked up by a taxi that was already headed out that direction, so I knew the fare would be less - he ended up charging me only $8.
The ride was pretty interesting – I was the only menwai in the car, so I knew they were talking to me whenever they used English. There were two other passengers – we dropped one off about halfway there, and for the other we had to take a half-hour diversion up and down a badly beaten-up dirt road. When I was alone with the cab driver, we started talking about where I was from and why I was here in Pohnpei. At one point, he suggested I find a Pohnpeian wife and stick around… I told him I’d think about it. :)
Eventually, we arrived at Lucas and Matt’s place – they live in a tiny house with a single bedroom and no stove, next to Ponape Agricultural & Trade School (PATS, which my driver said used to be “the best high school in the FSM”, before it was closed down). Unfortunately, due to the unexpectedly long cab ride, the four of them (Andy and Erin had arrived the night before) had already left when I got there … so, I told the cabbie to take me to Kepirohi falls to meet them.
Although Kepirohi is the most impressive of Pohnpei’s many waterfalls, you’d be hard-pressed to tell that from the decidedly understated entrance. The land it sits on, like all land in Pohnpei, is privately owned by a local family. You pass by their house (which is the usual corrugated tin affair) on the way up there, and someone steps out to accept the $3 fee for entry and points you to the narrow but well-maintained foot path.
I walked up this path for a few minutes, and soon I could hear the roar of the falls, long before I actually saw it. The path hit the river, and turned to parallel it. Soon I was stepping through more slippery river rocks, and then there it was. I had seen pictures, but I had imagined something about half as large, and was duly quite overwhelmed.
The waterfall is some 70 feet high, and almost as wide, with the raging waters tumbling over countless basalt boulders on the way down – one the left side these boulders are dry and Matt climbed up to the top on them at one point. At the bottom is a small pool which is home to some of the freshwater eels which Pohnpeians consider sacred, one of which apparently bit Matt while he was swimming. Sitting on the rocks at the edge of this pool, you are bathed in a spray of cool water from the falls and everything is drowned out by the roar – it was extremely relaxing.
After the waterfall, we walked back to Lucas and Matt’s to gather our stuff for our next outing to Nan Madol, then we started walking to Temwen (pronounced “chemwen”) island. After passing over the causeway, we came to a fork in the road and chose the path on the right. This turned out to be a mistake, as the paved road turned to dirt road, then to dirt wheel ruts and finally to thick weeds and mud. We turned back and took the other path, which was paved for most of the way.
After taking yet another wrong turn and doubling back, we finally found the road leading down to the ruins. Just as at Kepirohi, this path is owned by a family and we were required to pay one dollar each to use it. At the end of the path, we encountered the family that owns Nan Madol itself, and they charged us three more dollars. I was struck by how simply they lived, considering that they own one of Micronesia’s most important cultural treasures – although the complex of structures were large, so was the family that occupied them, and everything was very simply built and reflected their isolation from the rest of the island.
After paying, we walked through their backyard and began down the narrow path leading back to the ruins. We stepped down a walkway paved with bits of broken, dead coral, and crossed several makeshift bridges constructed from logs and plywood. Finally, we arrived on an island from which we could see the first truly identifiable structure, which was separated from us by a shallow channel of water.
The buildings of Nan Madol are constructed from basalt rocks which are cut so as to resemble logs – these are stacked in alternating directions on artificial islets to yield stone fortresses some twenty feet high in places. Once again, the pictures I had seen before had not prepared me for the size of the place, and I was also struck by another thought – these were the oldest structures I had ever seen. The area was occupied by people in the first or second century AD, the islets were constructed in the 8th or 9th century, and the buildings themselves were begun in the 12th or early 13th century. In other words, Columbus had yet to land in the Americas when they were already in use.
The complex originally covered some 170 acres and housed about a thousand people, with more than a hundred of the artificial islets spread out over the reef on the southern side of Temwen island. Today, more than half of this original area has been overtaken with jungle. The first building we saw was actually the royal mortuary of Nan Douwas, which sits at the very edge of the complex … we had walked right over most of the site without even noticing it.
Nan Madol Originally
Nan Madol Today
As we were about to wade across, we were joined by Liz, Saiyuri and Helen, who had coincidentally decided to tour the ruins as well. We knew Liz and Saiyuri from the hike in Salapwuk – Liz was a WorldTeach volunteer here four years ago, and has stayed on to work with CSP (Conservation Society of Pohnpei). Helen is a new arrival that we happened to have met the previous day on our way to the movies. We said hello, and then followed them across to the first island.
Nan Douwas itself consists of a series of nested courtyards, the innermost of which contains a royal tomb chamber. After exploring the islet thoroughly, we waded out to the reef. Some basalt walls marked the boundaries of shallow pools which were perfect for soaking in the warm Pacific waters. Off to our right was another islet in the complex, known as Kariahn, which marks the boundary of the city. To our left, we could see the reef island of Nahkapw about half a mile out – covered in palm trees and lined with sandy beaches, it was the sort of thing that would immediately come to mind when you hear “desert island”.
When we had seen enough, we all walked back to the entrance and Liz gave us a lift back to the house in Madolenihmw, where we left Matt and Lucas, and eventually all the way back to Kolonia. It was nice not to have to wait for a taxi, or to have to pay an arm and a leg. When we got back, we slipped Liz a little cash to buy coconut oil biodiesel for her car – yes, they can make a car run on coconuts.
At the apartment, the courtyard had been decked out with tables, chairs and balloons for a kid’s birthday party, to which we were immediately invited by our neighbors. The food was incredible – there was more pancit, along with a whole pig and some fish. After helping myself to some of the feast, I dashed upstairs to get bubbles and bouncy balls for the kids from the care package dad sent, which I quickly got rid of.
The party was also attended by a few of the Scottish medical students who have been doing internships here for the last few weeks. We drank a few San Miguels (a Phillipino beer) together, and I soon headed off to bed … only to discover that the power had again run out. As a result, Tanja and I had to trek down to a convenience store in Ohmine to buy CashPower cards. We have to start watching that more carefully.
As we were leaving to go run this errand, I finally got a chance to see a centipede when Tanja nearly stepped on it. There are no bees or snakes on the island, but this thing is something you really want to avoid – the bite is supposed to be incredibly painful (though not lethal) and they move very fast. The one we saw was about five inches long, but some of the kids at the party told us he had seen them two or three times bigger. Watch this awesome video or this one for an idea of how bad-ass these creatures can be.
Nan Douwas itself consists of a series of nested courtyards, the innermost of which contains a royal tomb chamber. After exploring the islet thoroughly, we waded out to the reef. Some basalt walls marked the boundaries of shallow pools which were perfect for soaking in the warm Pacific waters. Off to our right was another islet in the complex, known as Kariahn, which marks the boundary of the city. To our left, we could see the reef island of Nahkapw about half a mile out – covered in palm trees and lined with sandy beaches, it was the sort of thing that would immediately come to mind when you hear “desert island”.
When we had seen enough, we all walked back to the entrance and Liz gave us a lift back to the house in Madolenihmw, where we left Matt and Lucas, and eventually all the way back to Kolonia. It was nice not to have to wait for a taxi, or to have to pay an arm and a leg. When we got back, we slipped Liz a little cash to buy coconut oil biodiesel for her car – yes, they can make a car run on coconuts.
At the apartment, the courtyard had been decked out with tables, chairs and balloons for a kid’s birthday party, to which we were immediately invited by our neighbors. The food was incredible – there was more pancit, along with a whole pig and some fish. After helping myself to some of the feast, I dashed upstairs to get bubbles and bouncy balls for the kids from the care package dad sent, which I quickly got rid of.
The party was also attended by a few of the Scottish medical students who have been doing internships here for the last few weeks. We drank a few San Miguels (a Phillipino beer) together, and I soon headed off to bed … only to discover that the power had again run out. As a result, Tanja and I had to trek down to a convenience store in Ohmine to buy CashPower cards. We have to start watching that more carefully.
As we were leaving to go run this errand, I finally got a chance to see a centipede when Tanja nearly stepped on it. There are no bees or snakes on the island, but this thing is something you really want to avoid – the bite is supposed to be incredibly painful (though not lethal) and they move very fast. The one we saw was about five inches long, but some of the kids at the party told us he had seen them two or three times bigger. Watch this awesome video or this one for an idea of how bad-ass these creatures can be.
Anyway, that was my busy day in Madolenihmw. Enjoy these videos:
Kepirohi Falls
Nan Madol
Posts
4 comments:
This is interesting. Has the ground covered in the islet aroung Nan Madol or is just overgrown with Mangos and vegetation? It is beautiful. The water looks so refreshing. I could sit for hours and listen to the waterfall or does it become too loud after awhile? I would love a piece of basalt.
You are looking healthy --you've added some muscles!
Campbell moved to Gainesville yesterday. All went well.
My classroom is almost ready -- it ended uped with a French harlequin atmosphere. The bookcases look awesome. Thanks for your help.
I'll talk with you when you get a chance.
Love you,
Mom
Awesome updates. Nancy said she thought she heard some parrots in a video. Have you seen any? She also wondered about what pets they keep there – given that they eat dogs. It doesn’t sound like Bambi would go over well (done) there either. Your blog is so good you should get it to a publisher before somebody like me does, ha. I have been spreading you blog site around to friends so if you see any comments from strangers it might be them. I was wondering if you had a chance to see the Rick Warren’s interview with Obama and McCain last night. It was a great format. Both candidates responded to the same set of questions but could not hear each other’s responses. Obama didn’t have a teleprompter before him and didn’t do that well (my view of course), but in fairness to him, evangelicals are more aligned with McCain’s pro-life platform. I thought “ole John” did well last night but I am a little biased. He certainly is much quicker on his feet than I am and he is 9 years older, ha. Have you had a chance to see any of the Olympics there? Michael Phelps has won 8 straight gold medals – unbelievable! Of course, we are addicted here and have been putting in some late nights. I am supposed to go on a men’s retreat in Highlands, NC, next weekend, but we have a hurricane heading right up the route. TS Faye is strengthening and headed for our region. You haven’t talked much about rain there but suspect it is a daily occurrence in Micronesia. You are making some great friends. I could drink some San Miguel, a favorite beer, with them. It would be super to have a chance to do that. I miss seeing you but it is REALLY GOOD to hear from you. Love ya, Dad
your package came in the mail today!
i'm a little speechless at the moment, in a good way. you truly have a way with words, son.
my dad's computer is a piece of crap, and i can't download realplayer so i took your disk over to violet's and we sat around and watched some of your videos. mike is sick, so we didn't stick around long, and ended up driving to riverside with the battles blasting (as much as you could possibly blast the battles around a fragile-bellied pregnant woman) to porch-sit at the "democrat house" in the sopping heat.
the "hurricane", if you can call it that, is supposed to hit us tonight, but we'll probably just end up getting some wind and lots of thunder and lightening and crap, which is no different really from what we get every other afternoon here anyway. i can see it starting to creep in over the trees. it was so windy on i-95 north earlier i could barely keep my car driving in a straight line, granted the millions of semis passing on either side of you doesn't help matters much either.
i need to do some house cleaning. the mother is going to be home in a couple of hours and i still haven't put the spaghetti sauce out to thaw for dinnertime. i'm a bad daughter.
love,
k
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f296/stilltherain/octolove.jpg
i absolutely love him, by the way.
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